Tak Ada Kasur, Nyebur pun Jadi

Hotel Gardena, tempat aku menginap di Labuan Bajo, Manggarai Barat, Flores pada hari pertama aku di Flores (19/1) sebenarnya asik banget tempatnya. Hotelnya sederhana. Dinding kamarnya dari anyaman bambu. Tidak ada AC, hanya kipas angin. Dengan harga per kamar antara Rp 100 ribu hingga Rp 150 ribu per malam, hotel ini bisa jadi pilihan murah untuk menikmati laut dan bukit Labuan Bajo.

Namun, hotel ini juga terkesan tidak rapi. Tumbuhan tdak terawat ada di depan kamar. Tidak ada petunjuk jalan ke tiap kamar yang jaraknya satu sama lain saling berjauhan. Untuk ke kamar tamu harus meniti jalan berundak dan bercabang. Aku malah sempat kesasar ketika akan balik ke kamar. Apalagi penerangan tidak cukup. Tidak hanya temaram. Gelap bahkan.

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Simalakama Hotel di Labuan Bajo

Sebelum berangkat ke Flores, banyak teman di kantor tempatku kerja part time yang sudah mengingatkan beberapa hal. Misalnya jalan yang berkelok-kelok dari ujung ke ujung, panas di satu daerah namun dingin di bagian lain, juga ancaman malaria. Maka, secara psikologis aku sudah sadar dengan semua kondisi itu meski tidak siap-siap amat.

Namun, aku benar-benar tidak siap dengan hilangnya sinyal provider yang ku pakai, Pro XL, di Flores. Kehilangan sinyal membuatku seperti kehilangan akal sehat. Aku begitu cemas dan khawatir. Mungkin aku berlebihan. Tapi kehilangan sinyal telepon memang benar-benar membuatku tidak tenang selama sore itu.

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Ubud organic market needs more space

Features – January 31, 2008

Anton Muhajir, Contributor, Denpasar

The front yard of Pizza Bagus in Pengosekan, Ubud, was bustling with activity one recent morning.

Vendors had transformed the cramped yard into Ubud’s first organic market. Buyers carefully scoured piles of various organic food products, from fruits and vegetables to bread, honey, and ice cream.

Dutch national Edith van Walsum, a mother of two children, said shopping the organic market was quite exciting.

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Membelah Pulau Seribu Bukit

Meski melelahkan, perjalanan membelah Flores sebenarnya bisa jadi kegiatan wisata yang menarik. Pantai, bukit, dan gunung terhampar sepanjang pulau yang layak disebut Pulau Seribu Bukit ini.

Aku berniat menulis perjalanan lima hari di sana secara tematis, bukan kronologis. Tapi itu kan ide. Lain lagi praktiknya. Hehe.. Tiba-tiba hari aku ingin nulis mengalir saja. Seperti biasa, tidak usah pusing soal tetek bengek aturan nulis. Tulis saja apa yang ada di kepala.

Maka aku mau nulis panjang meski nanti bisa juga dibagi jadi beberapa bagian. Dan, kali ini aku mau memulainya dari tempat pertama yang aku datangi, Labuan Bajo.

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Lima Hari yang Meremukkan Tulang

Perjalanan ke Flores pekan lalu benar-benar untuk sebuah pekerjaan yang melelahkan. Aku melakukannya bersama Jelle, teman dari kantor pusat tempatku kerja part time. Lembaga di bidang pertanian berkelanjutan ini berkantor pusat di Belgia dan memiliki kantor setidaknya di 15 negara, termasuk di Indonesia. Kami ke Flores untuk meliput program lembaga ini di beberapa tempat di Flores.

Tentu saja melelahkan. Kami harus mengunjungi lebih dari lima kabupaten selama lima hari di Flores. Dan kondisi di sana benar-benar berbeda. Tidak seperti di Bali dan Jawa yang jalan di kampung pun sebagian besar sudah mulus dan datar. Di Flores, jalan naik turun bukit berkelok-kelok. Sudah naik turun, kondisi jalannya pun rusak parah.

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Solo, Timlo, dan Loyo

Di tengah perjalanan minggu ini, aku nemu warnet juga. Maka aku girang bukan kepalang. Meski badan sangat loyo, bisa online seperti mengalahkan itu semua. *Alamak, heroik sajaaaaaan!*

Yup, ini lagi Solo. Seharian tadi jalan ke tiga lokasi. Begitu turun dari Bandara Adi Sucipto Jogja, aku dan Jelle langsung ke Solo. Di sana ngobrol sama temen2 LSKBB, LSM mitra tempatku kerja part time. Kami ngobrol soal program mereka di bidang consumer awareness untuk produk pertanian organik. Ini masih sisa pekerjaan membuat dokumentasi program sustainable agriculture chain development, advocacy, dan consumer awareness untuk tempat kerja part time. Lanjut setelah di Flores lima hari.

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Inclusive ashram open to all religious traditions

Features – January 24, 2008

Anton Muhajir, Contributor, The Jakarta Post, Karangasem

Students of Ashram Gandhi Candi Dasa in Karangasem regency, Bali, have to practice their spiritual beliefs amid the constant noise produced by the bars, restaurants and cafes that are located just a few meters away from the ashram building.

The 2008 New Year’s celebrations showed just how difficult the situation could become for them.

While others celebrated the end of the year by partying, the 13 students of Ashram Gandhi sat cross-legged, trying to enjoy a moment of silence, while embracing the coming of the new year.

They chanted the holy mantrams (Hindu’s traditional prayers) by heart. They tried hard to act as if they were not aware of the festivities outside.

The year may change but not the students and the ashram.

Established in 1976 by prominent spiritual Balinese figure, Gedong Bagoes Oka, Ashram Candi Dasa — located in a part of Bali popular with tourists — is now the headquarters for two other ashrams: the Ashram Gandhi Vidyapith Denpasar, which was established in 1996 and the Ashram Gandhi Vidyapith Yogyakarta, established in 1997.

Ibu Gedong, as she was familiarly known, was an ardent activist for interfaith dialogue activities.

Many of Indonesia’s well-known religious figures came to the ashram when Ibu Gedong was running the place. Former president Abdurrahman Wahid, or Gus Dur, was one of the frequent attendees.

Even though an ashram is meant to be a place to learn about Hinduism, Ibu Gedong imposed a totally different set of rules, permitting others with different religions, or sometimes also people with no religions, to learn and live in the ashrams.

Besides religious teachings, the ashrams have also taught other skills needed in life, such as embroidery, craftsmanship and farming.

I Nyoman Sadra took the lead over the ashrams after Ibu Gedong passed away in 2002. He was one of Gedong’s first batch of students and also a former member of the Sarvodaya International Trust, a Bangalore-based international organization that aims to follow Gandhi’s way of life.

Sadra has also acknowledged that not all the students come to the ashram for spiritual reasons. Many of them do so simply because they cannot afford to go to school.

I Ketut Dharma Saputra is one of them. The 15-year old is the son of a poor farmer from Gianyar. His neighbor brought him to the ashram after hearing the ashram provided free schooling for its students. Ashram Gandhi gives educational assistance to all the 13 students who live in the ashram.

“We give them educational assistance from junior high school to university,” Sadra said.

He added that they had also built a kindergarten, which now has around 30 students. The learning process continues after school as these students still have to learn and practice spiritual and religious subjects in the ashram at night.

“It feels very awkward at first, but we learn to live with it,” Dharma commented on the obligation for students to practice religious teachings.

Unlike their peers, who are spoiled by television, Play Station and junk food, these teenage students eat no meat and must practice a modest way of life.

But life, however modest, requires money.

This fact has created confusion for Sadra as the ashram has no fixed income. The ashram has chosen not to get directly involved in the commercial world and this fact leaves them with no choice but to rely on donations and the savings accumulated during Ibu Gedong’s lifetime.

“Actually we have eight cottages that function as tourist accommodation in the compound, but since we don’t offer anything but a tranquil atmosphere, tourists rarely pick this place,” he said.

He realized that relying on the savings was not the best choice because the momentum of life at the ashram would flag once it was gone.

“I don’t want to beg for donations simply because Ibu Gedong did not do that,” Sadra said.

Published in The Jakarta Post

Mengawali Tahun dengan Puja

Puja pagi mengawali tahun baru 2008. Ketika hari masih gelap dan orang-orang mungkin masih terlelap, kami duduk bersila di ruang belakang gedung pertemuan. Bale puja yang biasa digunakan untuk berdoa agak basah karena hujan yang mengguyur semalam. Udara pun masih lembab. Dingin.

Sekitar 15 menit sebelumnya aku sudah ke tempat itu. Kadek Dian, koordinator murid-murid di ashram, semalam bilang puja pagi akan dimulai pukul 5. Tapi ketika aku ke sana pukul 5 pagi itu, belum ada satu orang pun. Aku lalu kembali ke kamar ashram di lantai dua gedung Taman Kanak-kanak. Aku kembali merebahkan badan, menarik selimut, lalu berbaring sambil melihat Bani dan Bunda di kasur sebelahku.

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Bali Serasa Darurat Militer

Konferensi PBB tentang perubahan iklim (UNFCCC) resmi dibuka hari ini di Nusa Dua. Ini narasi besar tentang pemanasan global. Dan, yang terjadi di lapangan hanyalah ketidaknyamanan.

Aku mulai merasakannya minggu-minggu ini. Paling terasa sih di Sanur pas habis mandi di pantai sama anak istri kemarin. Agak aneh juga melihat polisi bersenjata lengkap berdiri siaga menghadap ke jalan di perempatan Jl Hang Tuah – Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai. Bukannya ini tempar bersantai. Tapi kok polisi bermuka serem itu berdiri dengan tegaknya di sana? Bagiku sih tidak menimbulkan rasa nyaman, malah sebaliknya: perasaan seperti terancam.

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